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User talk:Espontarelli

2021-01-02T01:41:20Z

Admin: Welcome!

'''Welcome to ''vector-space.org''!'''
We hope you will contribute much and well.
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Again, welcome and have fun! [[User:Admin|Admin]] ([[User talk:Admin|talk]]) 20:41, 1 January 2021 (EST)

User:Espontarelli

2021-01-02T01:41:20Z

Admin: Creating user page for new user.

Vector Space Co-Founder and Executive Director

Main Page

2020-12-30T11:24:52Z

Admin:

==[[design-files|Design Files]]==
==[[Forms|Forms]]==
==[[Policies|Policies]]==
==[[Tool-User-Guides|Tool User Guides]]==
==[[Tool-Trainer-Checklists|Tool Trainer Checklists]]==
==[[Tool-Maintenance Guides|Tool Maintenance Guides]]==

== Getting started ==
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Main Page

2020-12-30T11:24:38Z

Admin:

==[[design-files|Design Files]]==
==[[Forms|Forms]]==
==[[Policies|Policies]]==
==[[Tool-User-Guides|Tool User Guides]]
==[[Tool-Trainer-Checklists|Tool Trainer Checklists]]==
==[[Tool-Maintenance Guides|Tool Maintenance Guides]]==
[https://vector-space.org/wiki/Tool-User-Guides:Tool User Guides]

== Getting started ==
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list]
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ]
* [https://lists.wikimedia.org/mailman/listinfo/mediawiki-announce MediaWiki release mailing list]
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CNC Plasma Cutter User Guide

2020-12-30T11:22:50Z

Admin: Created page with "{| |width="33%"| '''Shop Area:''' Metal Shop '''Tool:''' CNC Plasma Cutter '''Requires in-person trainin..."

{|
|width="33%"|
'''Shop Area:''' Metal Shop

'''Tool:''' CNC Plasma Cutter

'''Requires in-person training:''' Yes 
|width="33%"|
'''Procedure Number'''

UG 130-05, Rev. 0
|width="33%"|
'''Date'''

DRAFT
|}

= GENERAL =

This page describes the [http://www.langmuirsystems.com/crossfire Langmuir Crossfire CNC Plasma Table]. This is a 3 foot square table equipped with the 45 Amp [http://www.razorweld.com/catalogue_product.asp?product=983&category=22&subcategory=87 Razorweld plasma cutter]. It can be used to cut various sheet metals up to 1/2" thick.

= SAFETY =

* Always wear approved safety glasses or face shield while operating the equipment.
* The plasma cutter requires at least shade #5 eye protection. Welding helmets can also be used.
* Before operating equipment, remove tie, rings, watches and other jewelry, and roll sleeves up past the elbows. Remove all loose clothing and confine long hair.
* Non-slip footwear or anti-skid floor strips are recommended.
* Closed toe shoes are required when working in a shop area.
* Do not wear gloves while operating the equipment.
* Make all machine adjustments or maintenance with the machine unplugged from the power source.
* Never cut or weld material with zinc in it. Especially galvanized material. It gives off toxic fumes.
* If you want to see the path the plasma cutter will take and check the positioning of your material without cutting it, leave the plasma cutter off. Only turning on the computer and the controller will allow you to import your code and move the plasma cutter without it actually cutting the material.

= REFERENCE =

* https://www.langmuirsystems.com/troubleshooting
* Razorweld 45 manual - [http://www.razorweld.com/userfiles/file/RazorCUT45_Manual%20web.pdf www.razorweld.com/userfiles/file/RazorCUT45_Manual%20web.pdf]
* https://unimig.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/RAZOR-CUT-45-Manual.pdf
* SheetCAM tutorials - https://arclightcnc.com/sheetcam-tutorials/

= PROCEDURE =

The general workflow for using the CNC plasma is as follows.

# CAD Design
# CAM toolpath creation
# Machine Setup and Control

There are many different software options that can be used to make it through this workflow. Langmuir provides extensive [http://www.langmuirsystems.com/tutorials video tutorials] that cover the full workflow using Fusion 360. This entire method can be followed on the Caroline computer, which has a Fusion 360 license. The most common workflow used at Vector Space is Inkscape -> SheetCAM -> Mach3.

== 1. CAD ==

There are a lot of options for creating 2D CAD drawings. Inkscape is the easiest, there's also FreeCAD and libreCAD.

== 2. CAM ==

The purpose of the CAM process is to provide the tool with instructions on how to create the CAD drawing. In the case of the plasma cutter, this typically means how to follow the lines, and at what speed. The three programs we've successfully used to do this are SheetCAM, FreeCAD, and [http://pycam.sourceforge.net/ pyCAM]. Each is discussed below, but SheetCAM is recommended for beginners and can be found on the Caroline computer.

=== SheetCAM ===

The step-by-step instructions below assume that you have already created your object and are ready to improt it into SheetCAM to prepare the code for cutting with the plasma cutter.

==== Set post-processor to "Mach3 plasma" ====

* Options -> Machine -> Post processor drop down to "Mach3 plasma"

==== Import your drawing ====

* To begin a new project, Click the File menu – New Part. If you want to import a previously designed object from another program (dxf, svg, etc.), in the pop-up menu that opens, choose Yes when it asks if you want to Import a drawing, and then select your file from the explorer menu.
* Under the drawing options, pay special attention to Scaling and Position
** Scaling: Default is set yo 0.5 which is roughly half the size of the imported drawing. If you want it full size, change this to a “1”.
** Position: Default is set to the bottom left corner. This setting or any of the other corners would work best depending on if you have a blank piece of material. If you set the position to center, the plasma cutter will always start from the bottom left corner of your material and move to the object. If you are working around previous cuts, this makes the job much more difficult to position on the plasma cutter.
* If you did not import a drawing file, you can create your object using the SheetCAM controls.

==== Creating and assigning layers ====

Once you have completed your design or finished adjusting settings for the imported object, you can create different layers for objects if you want them cut in a certain order. For example, you may want the plasma cutter to cut the holes out first, then cut the rest of the design afterwards. To do this the program has the ability to assign objects to different layers.

When choosing to create your layers, be sure to choose them in the order that you want them to be cut. For example, choose the “Holes” layer first, and the rest of the design second. Think about how each layer will affect the rest of the project. Cutting the design first will probably drop it out of the material, so then it would be difficult to cut the holes after this happens.

* The program will assign all objects to one layer initially.
* To assign objects to a new layer, click the Mode menu and select Edit Contours.
* Left click and hold, then drag the mouse over one or more objects and then release the button.
* Right click on any of the selected objects. In the pop-up menu click Move to Layer, New layer (you will name it) or choose an existing layer to assign the object to a previously created layer.
* To edit the options for each layer:
** Click the Operation menu, Plasma Cut
** Pay attention to the following options in the pop-up menu:
*** Contour method: Do you want the cutting to happen on the inside, outside, or middle of the path lines. For example, you may want the holes to be cut on the inside, but the rest of the design on the outside.
*** Layer: Make sure you have selected the correct layer for the parameters you are setting.
*** Feed rate: The default for this is set to inches per minute (ipm), so if you wanted 20 mm/s, 40 ipm would be close to the same speed (47 ipm would be the exact same).
* Click “OK”. The path setting will now show up under “Operations” on the left sidebar off the program. You can double click to edit them later if necessary.
* When you have finished editing your object and adjusting settings for the layers, you can process the object to be run on the plasma cutter.

==== Processing your object ====

Once you have imported your object and adjusted the layers, it is time to process the image and create the code that will tell the plasma cutter how to cut the object. The code you create here will be imported into the Mach3 program installed on the plasma cutter computer.

* Click the File menu, choose Run post processor
* Name your file and save as a G-code (XX.tap) file. Note: Even if you try to add “.nc” to the end of this file type, it will still only be recognized as a “.tap” file.
* You will now be able to inspect the G-code at the bottom of the program window. If processed correctly, there should be X and Y coordinates in this code along with many G-code commands. SheetCAM will add in the start and stop commands between objects automatically and display the cutting path with lines and arrows.
* You will need to open the “.tap” file in notepad/mousepad and then click File, Save As and rename the ending of the file to “.nc” so that the Mach3 software on the plasma cutter computer will easily recognize the commands without issues. If you load the “.tap” file you may experience issues where the cutter will stop due to some elements of the code. Using and loading the “.nc” type file seems to eliminate any issues, even though the code is identical and unaltered.

=== FreeCAD ===

If the 2D CAD drawing is created in FreeCAD, the tool path generation can be created directly using the [https://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/Path_Workbench Path workbench]. There are a number of good [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=558lr67m91E video tutorials] available on using the path workbench; however, almost all of them assume that a 3D object is being created on something like a milling machine. The process for a 2D plasma cut is even simpler, and can in most cases be accomplished by creating a contour path of your sketch.

=== Import Existing 2D design ===

# Import dxf or svg into FreeCAD
# Select all shapes, draft workbench, convert bidirectionally between draft and sketch
# Select all sketches, Sketch workbench, merge sketches creates new sketch
# Delete all other shapes and sketches
# Path workbench

=== Create Original 2D design ===

# Use sketcher to create design
# Change to path workbench
# Set output file name and change processor to linuxcnc
# Edit default tool for 80 in/min horizontal, 20 in/min vertical, click OK
# Create profile based on edges. Add edges using Geometry tab.
# Preview toolpath using simulator button
# Export .nc file using the post-process button

=== PyCAM ===

PyCAM is an alternative option to using FreeCAD. It is a simpler tool, but far less versatile by comparison. To get started, you can either import an [http://pycam.sourceforge.net/modeling-inkscape-svg/ SVG from inkscape] or import a [http://pycam.sourceforge.net/modeling-openscad-dxf/ DXF from FreeCAD].

== 3. Machine Setup and Control ==

The Langmuir tutorials explain how to [http://www.langmuirsystems.com/tutorials#cut3 setup the physical machine] prior to cutting and how to [http://www.langmuirsystems.com/tutorials#cut5 execute the GCODE] you created in the CAM process by using the Mach3 software. Always have a little extra material or get your material a little larger for testing before you start your final cuts. Create a simple object such as a small circle to test cut on your material to see how it comes out.

# Set nozzle above workpiece with 1/8in shim
# Jog the cutter where you want it and set x and y zero in Mach3
# Load gcode
# Test the programming by clicking cycle start

== Speed and Power ==

The following table has been developed in-house. Please add to it with any experience you have.

{|
| '''Material'''
| '''Thickness'''
| '''Speed (inch/min)'''
| '''Amperage (Amps)'''
|-
| Carbon Steel
| 1/8 in
| 75
| 45
|-
|
| 1/4 in
| 35
| 45
|-
| Aluminum
| 1/8 in
| 110
| 45
|-
|
| 1/4 in
| 60
| 45
|-
|
| 1/2 in
|
|
|-
| Stainless Steel
| 1/4 in
| 30
| 45
|}

= TROUBLESHOOTING =

* Torch does not arc
** Check that the ground cable is properly attached to the table or workpiece
* Torch arcs but cuts out quickly
** Check that the workpiece is level relative to the torch, meaning that the gap is consistent across the entire workpiece
** Check and if necessary, replace the torch consumables
* The back side of the cut is not clean
** Adjust the power and speed

== CROSSFIRE™ CNC PLASMA MACHINE TROUBLESHOOTING ==

{|
!width="25%"| PROBLEM
!width="25%"| POTENTIAL CAUSES
!width="50%"| SOLUTIONS
|-
| Plasma Cutter is not automatically firing or is mis-firing intermittently.
| Worn out electrode.
| Inspect electrode and replace as necessary.
|-
|
| Cut height is too high.
| If the pilot arc starts but does not transfer to the work piece, it is possible that the cut height is too high. Lower the cut height in 0.020" increments until continuity is achieved. Please consult your plasma cutter manufacturer for published cutting parameters for your specific model.
|-
|
| Ground clamp not making electrical continuity with workpiece.
| If the pilot arc starts but does not transfer to the work piece, it is possible that the ground clamp is not making continuity to the work piece. Inspect that the ground clamp is properly attached. Also inspect that the plate is not sufficiently rusted or has a coating that will prevent continuity.
|-
|
| Plasma cutter is damaged.
| Inspect that your plasma cutter is still working properly off of the machine. Remove the torch from the torch holder and perform a manual cut off of the machine. If the torch does not fire, it's possible that the plasma cutter or torch has malfunctioned and you will need to contact your plasma cutter manufacturer for resolution.
|-
|
| Torch wiring not hooked up correctly to Torch ON/OFF port on electronics enclosure
| Inspect that the two wires are plugged in correctly to the Torch ON/OFF output jack on the electronics enclosure and that full continuity is made.
|-
|
| Torch wiring not hooked up correctly to plasma cutter trigger or CNC port.
| Inspect that the wires going from the electronics enclosure at the Torch ON/OFF output jack are spliced in correctly to the plasma cutter torch trigger wires. You may need to use a multimeter to preform a continuity test by manually pulling the plasma torch trigger and testing for continuity between the two wires.
|-
|
| Electrical relay inside CrossFireTM electronics enclosure is malfunctioning.
| If all other solutions fail to produce proper automatic torch firing, it is possible that the electrical relay within the electronics enclosure is not working properly. Please contact Langmuir Systems and submit a support request.
|-
| Torch height offset is low in some areas of travel and high in others.
| Workpiece is warped.
| Most plate is not perfectly flat and it may be possible that your workpiece is warped. Use a straight edge to inspect the flatness of your plate. If your plate is slightly warped, we recommend using C-clamps to fasten your workpiece down to the slat bed or the machine frame when cutting.
|-
|
| Slag accumulation on slat bed.
| The table surface is established by the top surface of the slat bed which can become chewed up after repetitive cutting and slag accumulation. We recommend removing the slag accumulation from the slat bed to re-establish the original bed surface. If the slats are too worn, it may be necessary to purchase a new slat pack.
|-
|
| Gantry tube is not level to slat surface.
| If all other solutions fail, it is possible that the gantry tube is not level to the surface created by the slat bed. Please consult the Assembly Manual for the correct procedure for aligning the gantry tube.
|-
| Stepper motors are missing steps (stalling) during programmed motion.
| Debris on rail tube surfaces.
| Both rail tubes should be wiped down clean with a dry cloth before and after cutting to prevent the accumulation of dust and debris which can hinder motion.
|-
|
| Excessive friction between lead screws and lead nuts.
| Inspect the spring mechanism on both lead nuts to ensure that they are moving freely and are not bound up. Apply a light coat of oil or grease to the full length of both lead screws and jog the machine back and forth to evenly coat.
|-
|
| Damaged carriage roller bearings.
| Inspect the roller bearings on both carriages for obvious damage and replace as necessary.
|-
|
| Machine travel limit reached.
| When the machine travel limit is reached, it will cause the motors to stall. Please make sure that your program is not cutting outside the travel limits of the machine.
|-
|
| Torch carriage colliding with workpiece.
| Perform a dry run of your program to inspect a potential collision between your torch and the workpiece.
|-
|
| Loose stepper motor connection at electronics enclosure.
| Inspect the connection between the stepper motors and the electronics enclosure for a loose connection and fasten as necessary.
|-
|
| Damaged Stepper Motor or Motor Drivers.
| If all other solutions fail to fix this issue, please contact Langmuir Systems and submit a support request.
|-
| Excessive backlash (play) resulting in irregular cut geometry.
| Lead screw couplers are loose.
| Inspect that two couplers used on each end of the lead screw to ensure that a tight fit is achieved. Re-tighten as necessary.
|-
|
| Lead nut is worn or damaged.
| Inspect the lead nut to ensure that the threads are not damaged and that the spring tensioning mechanism is functioning properly. Replace lead nuts as necessary.
|-
|
| Loose fastener between the lead screw coupler and roller bearing.
| Inspect the fastener at the end of the lead screw coupler where it clamps to the bearing. Tighten as necessary.
|-
|
| Lead nut fasteners are loose.
| Inspect the fasteners that attach the lead nuts to the lead nut mounts. Tighten as necessary.
|-
| Communication lost between CrossFireTM machine and computer controller (Mach3).
| USB cable unplugged from electronics enclosure or computer.
| Inspect that the USB cable is properly connected to both the electronics control box and your computer.
|-
|
| Synchronization has timed out between USB breakout board and Mach3 Software.
| Sometimes the sync between the USB breakout board and Mach3 can be lost. This can be due to programs running in the background or if your computer goes to sleep while running. To fix this issue, restart Mach3 software to restore the sync.
|-
|
| Breakout board (BOB) is damaged.
| If all other solutions fail, it is possible that the USB breakout board is malfunctioning. Please contact Langmuir Systems and submit a support request.
|-
| CrossFireTM machine is not powering on.
| The machine is not receiving power.
| Inspect all power cords and the power inlet switch for connectivity.
|-
|
| The power inlet fuse is blown.
| Remove the fuse at the power inlet rocker switch and inspect for damage. Replace the fuse if damaged.
|-
|
| The electronics control box is malfunctioning.
| If all other solutions fail, it is possible that the electronics control box is malfunctioning. Please contact Langmuir Systems and submit a support request.
|}

== ==

== '''GENERAL PLASMA CUTTING TROUBLESHOOTING''' ==

{|
!width="25%"| PROBLEM
!width="25%"| POTENTIAL CAUSES
!width="50%"| SOLUTIONS
|-
| Excessive cut edge angularity (bevel).
| Plasma torch nozzle is worn.
| The most common cause for increased edge angularity is a worn nozzle. Remove your plasma torch from the torch mount and inspect the nozzle orifice for wear. Replace as necessary.
|-
|
| Moisture in the compressed supply air.
| Moisture in the supply air can result in decreased cut quality which can produce undesired edge bevel. Make sure that you have a water separator in line with your supply air going to the plasma cutter. Also ensure that this water separator is functioning properly and is not full.
|-
|
| Torch is not perpendicular to cut surface.
| Inspect that your torch is mounted properly in the torch mount and that the torch is aligned perpendicular to the workpiece surface. Re-align the torch carriage as necessary in accordance with the Assembly Manual provided.
|-
|
| Travel speed is too fast.
| An increased travel speed will not allow the plasma jet to cut fully down through the workpiece while moving. This causes the plasma column to lag behind while cutting which can produce excessive edge bevel. Slow your travel speed down in increments of 10IPM until the desired cut quality is achieved.
|-
|
| Plasma torch nozzle diameter is too large.
| Most plasma cutters have a range of nozzles that are rated for amperage. Typically the higher amperage nozzles will have a larger nozzle orifice diameter. This larger orifice can produce more edge angularity because the plasma jet is not as tightly focused when using a smaller nozzle size. We recommend lowering your amperage and selected a smaller fine cut nozzle if possible for your project to produce better edge angularity.
|-
|
| Incorrect cutting amperage.
| Incorrect cutting amperage can product either positive or negative edge bevel. Adjust your arc amperage in 3A increments until the desired cut quality is achieved.
|-
|
| Workpiece is warped.
| A warped workpiece can result in irregular cut angularity due to the fact that the torch is no longer perpendicular to the workpiece. Inspect your workpiece and clamp as necessary. If you are experiencing warpage while cutting on thinner material, we recommending cutting with a water table to eliminate this thermal distortion.
|-
|
| Improper cut height.
| Cut height can have an affect on edge angularity which can produce either a positive or negative edge bevel angle. Adjust the cut height either up or down in 0.030" to reduce edge angularity.
|-
| Excessive backside dross (slag).
| Slow travel speed.
| Backside dross can occur when cutting if the travel speed used is too slow. Try increasing your travel speed by 5 IPM increments until the amount of dross is reduced.
|-
|
| Cut height is too low.
| If the cut height is too low, this can cause more backside dross to form. Try increasing the cut height in 0.030” increments until the back side dross is reduced.
|-
|
| Cutting amperage is too high.
| If the cutting amperage is too high, this can cause an increase in the amount of backside dross. Try reducing the cutting amps in increments of 3A until the amount of dross is reduced.
|-
|
| Large nozzle orifice diameter.
| A larger nozzle orifice can result in an increased presence of backside dross. Consult your plasma cutter manufacturer for the availability of smaller nozzle sizes that are compatible with your cutting torch.
|-
| Excessive topside dross (spatter).
| Cut height is too high.
| Top spatter or top dross can occur when the plasma stream first pierces the work piece and the molten metal adheres to the top surface of the material. It is typically much less common than back side dross and it can be easily removed by chipping away from the work piece. If you are experiencing a high incidence of top dross, it is possible that your chosen cut height is too high and should be reduced.
|-
|
| Pierce delay is too short.
| If the pierce delay is too short, it does not allow the plasma arc enough time to correctly pierce the material completely before motion begins. Try increase the pierce delay in 0.1 second intervals until top dross is eliminated.
|-
|
| Amperage is too low.
| If the amperage is too low, the plasma cutter does not have enough power to quickly pierce the material. Try increasing the cutting amperage in intervals of 3A.
|-
| Cut holes are excessively tapered.
| Travel speed is too fast.
| When cutting holes, the plasma cutter is constantly changing direction which can make it difficult to achieve a full speed cut in smaller holes. If you are experiencing holes that measure larger on the top surface than the bottom, it may be necessary to cut these holes out at a slower travel speed. We recommend programming a second layer in SheetCAM for your part and putting holes in the second layer at half of the desired travel speed.
|-
|
| Excessive edge angularity on part.
| Holes typically have higher edge angularity than straight edges. If you are already experiencing high edge angularity on the rest of your part, this will make holes even worse. Please refer to the above section on edge angularity for more troubleshooting tips.
|-
| Workpiece experiences a large amount of distortion when cutting.
| Thermal gradients established in workpiece during cutting.
| The plasma cutting processes uses a high temperature plasma arc to melt and cut through the workpiece. As a result, the workpiece will heat up locally which can establish a thermal gradient in the part. This gradient can lead to distortion which will effectively warp you workpiece. Typically with material that is 3/16" and thicker, distortion is not as much of an issue because the plate is strong enough to resist this warping. On thinner plate and sheet metal, distortion can be an issue which can make detailed cutting impossible without distorting the workpiece. 
 
Fortunately, some cooling methods can be used that completely eliminates this distortion when cutting. A water table is simply a tray filled with water that surrounds the slat bed of a gantry-style CNC plasma machine. The tray is filled with water to below the top surface of the slat bed so that the action of plasma cutting causes water in the tray to splash back up onto the backside of the part being cut. This allows for part cooling, reduces cutting noise, decreases part warpage, reduces arc flash, and reduces smoke and cutting dust. A water table can be purchased for the CrossFireTM machine from Langmuir Systems or it can be made by following our guide in the Projects page. If you are not able to purchase a water table, we have had an equal amount of success by using a standard spray water bottle and continuously spraying the plasma arc with the water bottle during cutting to cool the part.
|-
| Cut does not penetrate completely through workpiece.
| Amperage is too low.
| If the plasma cutter amperage is too low, it will not have enough power to completely penetrate the material. Try increasing the amperage in 3A intervals until a clean and complete cut edge is achieved. Consult your plasma cutter manufacturer for proper amperage settings for your machine.
|-
|
| Travel speed is too fast.
| If the travel speed is too fast, the plasma arc will lag behind and will not be able to complete several the material. We recommend slowing down the travel speed in 10 IPM increments until a satisfactory cut edge is achieved.
|-
|
| Supply air pressure too low.
| If the supply air is too low, it will not have enough power to completely sever the material and will result in a poor cut edge. Consult your manufacture for the correct supply air pressure settings and make sure that your air compressor has enough capacity to keep up when cutting.
|-
|
| Cut height is too high.
| If the cut height is too high, the plasma arc may not penetrate completely through the material. Try lowering the cut high in 0.030" increments until a complete severance cut is achieved.
|-
| Consumables are wearing out more quickly than expected.
| Nozzle orifice is clogged or dirty.
| The daily buildup of dirt and grime on the nozzle can clog the orifice which greatly affects the swirling of the plasma arc. This can lead to decreased lifetime for both the nozzle and electrode. Make sure that the plasma nozzle remains clean before each use.
|-
|
| Supply air pressure is incorrect.
| If air pressure is too high, this can greatly reduce the lifetime of the electrode. Conversely, if air pressure is too low the nozzle orifice will wear which can affect cut quality. Consult your plasma cutter manufacturer for ideal air pressure settings for your specific plasma cutter model.
|-
|
| Cut height is not set correctly.
| When the plasma cutter initiates the arc, it can take several moments to completely pierce the material depending on the thickness of the material. During this pierce, molten metal is ejected from the topside of the material which can be blown back onto the nozzle orifice. As a result, it is important to use a cut height that is not too low to avoid this blow back of material which can damage the nozzle orifice over time. Conversely, if the cut height is too high the arc will not transfer which will degrade the lifetime of the electrode. Consult your plasma cutter manufacturer for the correct cutting height parameters for your given project.
|-
|
| Supply air is not dry.
| The plasma cutting arc is especially sensitive to moisture. Air compressors take humidified air from the atmosphere which always contains some amount of water. Make sure that you either have a water separator on your plasma cutter or that you have a water separator in line with your air compressor before the air is delivered to your plasma cutter. Moisturized air can greatly decrease the lifetime of your consumables and can negatively affect cut quality.
|-
|
| Incorrect cutting parameters.
| Every plasma cutter is different. We encourage you to contact your plasma cutter manufacturer to get a complete list of proper cutting parameters to use with your machine to optimize the lifetime of your consumables.
|-
| Unequal (uni-directional) edge angularity.
| The workpiece is warped.
| If a workpiece is warped, it can cause a unidirectional edge bevel because the plasma arc is not perpendicular to the material surface. Inspect the material for flatness and use clamping as necessary.
|-
|
| The torch is not mounted perpendicular to the slat bed surface.
| Inspect that your torch is mounted properly in the torch mount and that the torch is aligned perpendicular to the workpiece surface. Re-align the torch carriage as necessary in accordance with the Assembly Manual provided.
|-
|
| Slag accumulation on slat bed creating an unequal cut surface.
| The table surface is established by the top surface of the slat bed which can become chewed up after repetitive cutting and slag accumulation. We recommend removing the slag accumulation from the slat bed to re-establish the original bed surface. If the slats are too worn, it may be necessary to purchase a new slat pack.
|-
|
| The gantry tube is misaligned.
| If all other solutions fail, it is possible that the gantry tube is not level to the surface created by the slat bed. Please consult the Assembly Manual for the correct procedure for aligning the gantry tube.
|-
| Irregular cut geometry along one axis.
| Incorrect stepper motor settings in Mach3.
| If the motor tuning settings are changed accidently in Mach3, it can affect the 'gear ratio' for a given axis. If this happens, you will need to re-load the specific Mach3 configuration file for the CrossFireTM machine. Please consult the Assembly Manual for instructions on how to configure Mach 3 for your machine.
|-
|
| One lead screw coupler is loose.
| Inspect that two couplers used on each end of the lead screw to ensure that a tight fit is achieved. Re-tighten as necessary.
|-
|
| Lead nut is worn or damaged.
| Inspect the lead nut to ensure that the threads are not damaged and that the spring tensioning mechanism is functioning properly. Replace lead nuts as necessary.
|-
|
| Loose fastener between the lead screw coupler and roller bearing.
| Inspect the fastener at the end of the lead screw coupler where it clamps to the bearing. Tighten as necessary.
|-
|
| Lead nut fasteners are loose.
| Inspect the fasteners that attach the lead nuts to the lead nut mounts. Tighten as necessary.
|-
| Part dimensions are oversized/undersized compared to design.
| Kerf width setting is too large.
| If the kerf width setting for your programmed tool in SheetCAM is too large, the dimensions of all outside offset part geometry will be undersized (all inside offset geometry will be oversized). We recommend making a test cut at the known parameters in a straight line and using a tape measure or caliper to measure the actual kerf width.
|-
|
| Kerf width setting is too small.
| If the kerf width setting for your programmed tool in SheetCAM is too small, the dimensions of all outside offset part geometry will be oversized (all inside offset geometry will be undersized). We recommend making a test cut at the known parameters in a straight line and using a tape measure or caliper to measure the actual kerf width.
|-
| Divots' created in cut edge at starts/stops.
| Missing or under-sized cut lead-in.
| Lead-ins are used when CNC plasma cutting in order to make smooth cuts when piercing a material. A lead-in is used at the start of a cut so that the plasma arc can be pierced in an area of the part that is slightly away from the actual geometry of the part. After making the pierce, the plasma torch moves along the lead-in path (usual an arc) and makes a smooth cut around the part geometry. Without a lead-in, a rough cut or 'divot' will result where the plasma torch first made the initial pierce since it pauses here for a given amount of time when piercing.
|-
|
| Excessive gap between part and slat surface.
| Sometime 'divots' in the cut edge can result when a cut is finished and the part starts to drop out before the cut is completely finished. This usually happens when the drop is small enough so that it is unsupported by the slat bed when the cut is complete. To avoid this, make sure that the drop is supported when the cut is complete.
|}

THIS IS THE END OF THE PROCEDURE

Pipe and Tube Bender User Guide

2020-12-30T11:21:33Z

Admin: Created page with "{| |width="33%"| '''Shop Area:''' Metal Shop '''Tool:''' Pipe and Tube Bender '''Requires in-person training:''' Yes |width="33%"| '''Procedure Number''' UG 130-10, Rev...."

{|
|width="33%"|
'''Shop Area:''' Metal Shop

'''Tool:''' Pipe and Tube Bender

'''Requires in-person training:''' Yes
|width="33%"|
'''Procedure Number'''

UG 130-10, Rev. 0
|width="33%"|
'''Date'''

DRAFT
|}

= GENERAL =

'''Di-Acro Metal Fabrication Bender No. 2'''

= SAFETY =

* Always wear approved safety glasses or face shield while operating the equipment.
* Before operating equipment, remove tie, rings, watches and other jewelry, and roll sleeves up past the elbows. Remove all loose clothing and confine long hair.
* Non-slip footwear or anti-skid floor strips are recommended.
* Closed toe shoes are required when working in a shop area.
* Wear gloves while operating the equipment.

= REFERENCE =

* [https://www.diacro.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Art-Of-Bending_2013.pdf '''ART OF BENDING''']

= PROCEDURE =

Di-Acro Manual Benders are for bending wire, solid stock, tubing, flat stock, etc. and to accurately form and duplicate simple, compound, and reverse bends. The operator is also able to quickly change over tooling from one bending operation to another.

Bender is for the heavier operations for materials as heavy as 1/2” round steel bar and 3/4” diameter steel tubing. Radius Capacity is 9”.

Detailed illustrations below show procedure for cold forming a standard bend in solid material.

Review the [https://www.diacro.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Art-Of-Bending_2013.pdf '''ART OF BENDING'''] to gain insight into the machine’s bending versatility for the following types of bends:

'''Quick Lok'''

1. Remove nose and replace with Forming Roller

2. Mount grooved Radius Collar as shown below

3. Set Quik-Lok to match up with flat side of Radius

4. Locate two 3/8” diameter bolts in Quik-Lok base and tighten.

5. Make sure handle locks in forward position.

= TROUBLESHOOTING =

* A Forming Nose is to set the exact material thickness and this adjustment is necessary when bending centered eyes as the Forming Nose must be in close contact with the material when the eye centering bend.
* Forming Nose must be grooved to fit material.
* Lubricating the forming Nose also reduces marking.
* When the material to be formed is sufficiently rigid and the required bend is somewhat less than 360°, it is often desirable to leave considerable clearance between the material and the Forming Nose, as this reduces the bending effort.
* Under these conditions it is also possible to use a Forming Roller and its use is especially recommended when it is desirably to reduce work marking.
* Flattening on the inside of a bend, which occurs when round materials are formed to a small radius, can be eliminated by grooving the Radius Pin or Collar to exactly fit the Bar.
* If the bend is in excess of 180°, the Grooved Pin or Collar must be split horizontally so the formed material can be removed.

'''THIS IS THE END OF THE PROCEDURE'''

Stick Welding User Guide

2020-12-30T11:20:46Z

Admin: Created page with "{| |width="33%"| '''Shop Area:''' Metal Shop '''Tool:''' Stick Welder '''Requires in-person training:'''..."

{|
|width="33%"|
'''Shop Area:''' Metal Shop

'''Tool:''' Stick Welder

'''Requires in-person training:''' Yes 
|width="33%"|
'''Procedure Number'''

UG 130-02, Rev. 0
|width="33%"|
'''Date'''

DRAFT
|}

= GENERAL =

Craftsman 210 Amp AC stick welder. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_K9-kB6HRk Stick welding basics]

* The electrode is composed of solid metal rod which is coated with metal powders and other compounds which are held into the surface by a binding agent.
* Stick welding is primarily used for heavy-duty iron and steel welds but it can also be used to weld other metals such as aluminum.

= SAFETY =

* Always wear approved face shield while operating the welder.
* Wear a welder helmet that fits your head, face and neck comfortably. It should cover the top of your head down to where your head and neck meet. Those with a mask that lifts are helpful because they let you take a peek at your work, but you may want an auto-darkening helmet too that comes with shields designed for different jobs.
* Wear approved welder’s gloves and jacket.
* Before operating equipment, remove tie, rings, watches and other jewelry, and roll sleeves up past the elbows. Remove all loose clothing and confine long hair.
* Non-slip footwear or anti-skid floor strips are recommended.
* Closed toe shoes are required when working in a shop area.

= REFERENCE =

* YouTube video - Stickl Welding https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_K9-kB6HRk
* https://www.millerwelds.com/resources/article-library/five-steps-to-improving-your-stick-welding-technique

= PROCEDURE =

'''Basic elements of stick welding:'''

[https://www.millerwelds.com/resources/welding-resources/stick-welding-resources Stick welding] is also known as shielded metal arc welding (SMAW).

'''1. Prepare Surface'''

* Use a wire brush or grinder to remove dirt, grime or rust from the area to be welded. Unclean surfaces can lead to cracking, porosity, lack of fusion or inclusions. Clean surfaces will provide a solid electrical connection to maintain arc quality.

'''2. Current setting''':

* Use an AC electrode. Make sure you have it set correctly for your application.
* Amperage setting will depend on the diameter and type of electrode.
* Select amperage based on the electrode, typically 1 amp for each .001-inch of electrode diameter.
* Adjust [https://www.millerwelds.com/equipment/welders/stick-smaw welder] by 5 to 10 amps at a time, until the ideal setting is reached.

'''3.''' '''Length of arc''':

* The optimal arc length, or distance between electrode and puddle, is the same as the diameter of the electrode (the actual metal part within the flux covering).
* The correct arc length varies with each electrode and application. As a good starting point, arc length should not exceed the diameter of the metal portion (core) of the electrode. For example, an 1/8-inch 6010 electrode is held about 1/8 inch off the base material.
* Holding the electrode too close to the joint decreases welding voltage, which creates an erratic arc that may extinguish itself or cause the electrode to freeze faster and produces a weld bead with a high crown.
* An arc length that is too short will create greater potential for the electrode sticking to the base material.
* Excessively long arcs (too much voltage) produce spatter, low deposition rates, undercuts and often leaves porosity.
* Too long of an arc length will create excess spatter in the weld joint. There is also a high potential for undercut.

'''4. Angle of travel''':

* Stick welding in the flat, horizontal and overhead positions uses a drag or backhand welding technique.
* Hold the electrode perpendicular to the joint, and then tilt the top in the direction of travel approximately 5 to 15 degrees.
* For welding vertical up, use a push or forehand technique and tilt the top of the electrode 0 to 15 degrees away from the direction of travel.

'''5. Manipulation of electrode''':

* To create a wider bead, manipulate the electrode from side to side, creating a continuous series of partially overlapping circles in a ‘Z,’ semi-circle or stutter-step pattern.
* Limit side-to-side motion to two times the diameter of the electrode core.
* To cover a wider area, make multiple passes or use stringer beads.
* Note that on material 1/4 inch and thinner, weaving the electrode is typically not needed because the bead will be wider than necessary. A straight bead should be adequate.
* When welding vertical up, focus on welding the sides of the joint. Move across the middle of the joint slowly enough so that the weld puddle can catch up, and pause slightly at the sides to ensure solid tie-in to the sidewall.

'''6. Speed of travel''':

* Travel speed should allow you to keep the arc in the leading one-third of the weld pool.
* To establish the optimal travel speed, first establish a weld puddle of the desired diameter, and then move at a speed that keeps you in the leading one-third of the puddle.
* If you travel too slowly, the heat will be directed into the puddle and not into the weld, leading to cold lap or poor fusion.
* Excessively fast travel speeds will also decrease penetration, create a narrower and/or highly crowned bead, and possibly underfill or undercut (the area outside of the weld is concave or recessed).

= TROUBLESHOOTING =

'''Clean and Dry up the Joint before Welding -''' Remove any rust, paint, moisture or oil from the surface of the joint so as that you can attain the intended travel speed. This will also help you to deal with other issues such as porosity which tends to weaken the weld. Alternatively, you can use certain brands of high-speed electrodes to penetrate through the substances, deep into the metal.

'''Don’t Reuse an Electrode -''' If you want a clean weld that is free from porosity try as much as possible not to use a partially used electrode for your subsequent weld. As such you should always prioritize quality and not factor the extra cost as much.

'''Have the Necessary Finishing Supplies -''' Consider having all the necessary supplies for a good looking and neat stick weld. They include sandpaper, angle grinder, and a chipping hammer which will come in handy in doing some final touches and also help in the clean-up process when you are done welding.

'''Wet electrodes -''' A rough arc action could be as a result of wet electrodes. If this is the case, you should substitute the electrodes with dry ones.

'''Improper Fusion -''' A proper fusion is when the weld is attached strongly to the walls of the joint resulting into a solid bond across the joint. Improper fusion is physically visible and it has to be dealt with in order for you to have a sound weld. To correct improper fusion, make a weld pass with a higher current and make sure that the joint is clean. If this does not solve the problem, try an alternative solution like the weave technique to fill up the gap.

'''Wandering arc -''' An arc can wander from the intended direction. Try low currents and if this does not work try to reduce the arc length or use smaller electrodes.

'''Shallow Penetration -''' This is simply the depth of the welder and it is not normally visible. Penetration to the bottom of the base metal is necessary for sturdy welds. Slower travel or higher currents can help to counter shallow penetration. You can also use a small electrode to dig deep into narrow grooves.

'''Cracking -''' Cracking is common phenomena and it can occur at any point throughout the weld. Most cracks are as a result of high content of sulfur, carbon or alloy in the base metal and it can potentially lead to failure of the entire project. Low hydrogen electrodes are known to significantly reduce the risk of cracking. You can also try and reduce penetration if there is a risk of cracking.

'''Other Tips:'''

* If your amperage is too low, your electrode will be especially sticky when striking an arc, your arc will keep going out while maintaining the correct arc length or the arc will stutter.
* Once you get an arc going, if the puddle is excessively fluid and hard to control, your electrode chars when it’s only half gone, or the arc sounds louder than normal, your amperage might be set too high. Too much heat can also negatively affect the electrode’s flux properties.
* When the amperage is set too high, the puddle will be excessively fluid and hard to control. This can lead to excess spatter and higher potential for undercut. In addition, the electrode will become hot — perhaps hot enough to glow toward the end of the weld—which can adversely affect the shielding properties of the flux.
* Traveling too slowly produces a wide, convex bead with shallow penetration and the possibility of cold-lapping, where the weld appears to be simply sitting on the surface of the material. This can result in insufficient penetration in those areas. Traveling too slowly can also focus the heat into the puddle and not into the base material.
* Traveling too fast will create a thinner/undersized bead that will have more of a V-shaped ripple effect in the puddle rather than a nice U-shaped, or stacked dimes, effect.

THIS IS THE END OF THE PROCEDURE

Klutch Heavy Duty English Wheel Kit User Guide

2020-12-30T11:18:26Z

Admin: Created page with "{| |width="33%"| '''Shop Area:''' Metal Shop '''Tool:''' Klutch Heavy-Duty English Wheel Kit '''Requires in-person training:''' Yes |width="33%"| '''Procedure Number''' U..."

{|
|width="33%"|
'''Shop Area:''' Metal Shop

'''Tool:''' Klutch Heavy-Duty English Wheel Kit

'''Requires in-person training:''' Yes
|width="33%"|
'''Procedure Number'''

UG 130-15, Rev. 0
|width="33%"|
'''Date'''

DRAFT
|}

= GENERAL =

Klutch® Heavy-Duty English Wheel Kit with stand is ideal for shaping, fabricating, and smoothing dents or welding seams in fenders, hoods and trunk panels. Handles sheet metal to 18-ga., and copper and aluminum to 14-ga.

= SAFETY =

* Always wear approved safety glasses or face shield while operating the equipment.
* Before operating equipment, remove tie, rings, watches and other jewelry, and roll sleeves up past the elbows. Remove all loose clothing and confine long hair.
* Non-slip footwear or anti-skid floor strips are recommended.
* Closed toe shoes are required when working in a shop area.
* Wear gloves while operating the equipment.

= REFERENCE =

= PROCEDURE =

'''English wheel is used to bend and form sheet metal to make useable parts.'''

# The frame is shaped in the form of a closed letter ‘C’. At one end of the frame are two wheels that are used to form the sheet metal. The top wheel is called the rolling wheel, while the bottom wheel is known as the anvil wheel.
# On an average, the size of the rolling wheel has a width of 8 centimeter (3.1 in) (3") and the anvil wheel has a diameter of 25cm (10").
# The depth of the C frame is known as the throat. The depth determines the size of the sheet metal that can be formed using the English wheel.
# Equipment manufacturers can produce English wheels with throat depths up to 120cm (48"). Some machines even have designs that allow the wheels to turn at a 90° angle so as to incorporate larger sheet metal.
# Two common metals that are formed using the English wheel are steel and aluminum.
# The lower jaw of the frame that holds the anvil wheel is adjustable to provide a range of forming capabilities as the metal thins.
# The die holder for the anvil wheel is controlled by a screw with a handle which adjusts the gap between the anvil wheel and the rolling wheel.
# There is usually a lever attached to the lower wheel which will open jaws so that the formed metal can be easily removed.

<div>

'''Using the English Wheel'''

</div>
* '''Choose the die.''' Choose the die according to the type of forming you wish to achieve.
* '''Attach the die to the frame.''' The lower jaw of the C frame has two carved grooves and the anvil wheel has an axle which extends on either side. Place the die onto the lower jaw by fitting the axle into the grooves.
* '''Adjust the gap between the wheels.''' Turn the handle under the lower jaw to adjust the space between the wheels. A smaller the gap will apply more pressure to the sheet metal.
* '''Begin the metal forming process.''' Pass the sheet metal through the gap between the rolling wheel and the anvil wheel.
* '''Move the sheet metal back and forth between the two dies to help form the sheet metal.''' Note that the sheet metal part can be manipulated in every direction.
* '''Remove the sheet metal after forming is complete.''' Many English wheels are equipped with a lever just under the anvil wheel. The lever increases the gap so you can remove the sheet metal easily without changing your settings.

= =

= TROUBLESHOOTING =

'''THIS IS THE END OF THE PROCEDURE'''

Milling Bridgeport User Guide

2020-12-30T11:17:00Z

Admin: Created page with "{| |width="33%"| '''Shop Area:''' Metal Shop '''Tool:''' Milling Bridgeport '''Requires in-person training:''' Yes |width="33%"| '''Procedure Number''' UG 130-06, Rev. 0..."

{|
|width="33%"|
'''Shop Area:''' Metal Shop

'''Tool:''' Milling Bridgeport

'''Requires in-person training:''' Yes
|width="33%"|
'''Procedure Number'''

UG 130-06, Rev. 0
|width="33%"|
'''Date'''

DRAFT
|}

= GENERAL =

= SAFETY =

= REFERENCE =

= PROCEDURE =

= TROUBLESHOOTING =

'''THIS IS THE END OF THE PROCEDURE'''

Blacksmithing User Guide

2020-12-30T11:16:15Z

Admin: Created page with "{| |width="33%"| '''Shop Area:''' Metal Shop '''Tool:''' Blacksmithing '''Requires in-person training:''' Yes |width="33%"| '''Procedure Number''' UG 130-01, Rev. 0 |wid..."

{|
|width="33%"|
'''Shop Area:''' Metal Shop

'''Tool:''' Blacksmithing

'''Requires in-person training:''' Yes
|width="33%"|
'''Procedure Number'''

UG 130-01, Rev. 0
|width="33%"|
'''Date'''

DRAFT
|}

= GENERAL =

Blacksmithing Tools:

* Hell's Forge a propane forge

* Anvils

* Leg vise

* Hand tools

* 2x72" Belt Grinders / Polishing

= SAFETY =

* Always wear approved face shield.
* Before operating equipment, remove tie, rings, watches and other jewelry, and roll sleeves up past the elbows. Remove all loose clothing and confine long hair.
* Non-slip footwear or anti-skid floor strips are recommended.
* Closed toe shoes are required when working in a shop area.
* '''NEVER LEAVE THIS UNIT BURNING UNATTENDED UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE. THIS UNIT IS TO BE USED FOR HEATING METAL ONLY AND SHOULD NEVER BE USED FOR ANY OTHER PURPOSE.'''

= REFERENCE =

* Hell's Forge Link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wZ4ceSf3Ck5L0tH9nntXHJo13wdFtPMu/view
* https://hellsforge-usa.com/pages/instructions
* https://hellsforge-usa.com/pages/videos

= PROCEDURE =

'''Hell's Forge:'''

# Burner tip comes with a small rubber cap or caps that is to be used for leak checks only and must be removed prior to use.
# While rubber caps are sealing the burner or multiple burners, slowly turn on the propane (DO NOT SMOKE OR HAVE ANY FLAMES PRESENT WHILE PERFORMING THIS PROCEDURE).
# While gas is on and caps are sealed, spray soapy water (Water and Dishwashing detergent) at every connection including your propane tank connection while observing for any bubbles present which indicates a gas leak. (Do not use if gas leak is occurring).
# If a rare gas leak occurs, unscrew fitting and apply gas approved pipe sealant on the threads and re-screw back on to fitting.
# After the leak check has been performed, turn off all propane sources.
# Slide the red burner tubes on each side of the stainless steel burner assembly (Just the 1 burner on single models) so that the washers rest on the top of the tubes and tighten the set screws with the Allen wrench to secure. Slide the red burner tubes into the burner holders evenly into the forge to be flush with the blanket. You don't want to see the red tube inside the forge. Do not insert them farther as the back pressure will cause the flame to flutter. Tighten the 3/8” bolts on the holders to secure the burner tubes. (Do not overtighten)
# Connect the hose regulator to the brass flare fitting. Use a separate wrench on both the brass flare fitting and the regulator connection to tighten. (Do not use any thread sealer on this fitting or overtighten)
# Make sure regulator is in the off position, then connect regulator to propane tank (BE SURE PROPANE AND REGULATOR ARE OFF)
# Once refractory has been installed and dried, gently lay fire brick in the bottom of the forge housing while taking care not to drag across or damage the fire blanket.
# It is easier to slide the red burner tubes onto the burner assembly before the burner tubes are installed in the forge body.
# Always use 2 wrenches at all connections to support 1 nut while tightening the other to prevent damage to threads and fittings. (NEVER USE ONLY 1 WRENCH AS DAMAGE WILL OCCUR)
# NEVER PLACE PROPANE REGULATOR HOSE AT THE OPENING OF THE FORGE. IT MUST BE TO THE SIDE OF THE FORGE OPENING, AWAY FROM THE MAIN HEAT SOURCE
# WHEN OPERATING ON 1 BURNER, CLOSE THE CHOKE ON THE BURNER TUBE THAT IS NOT IN USE. WHEN FORGING IS COMPLETE, (USING 1, 2, or 3 BURNERS), MAKE SURE TO CLOSE ALL CHOKES AFTER USE WHILE THE HEAT DISSIPATES.

'''Hell's Forge Lighting Instructions'''

# Always light the flame inside of the forge (Never light at the burner tube holes!)
# Use of a piece of flammable material (Paper, long fireplace match, etc) inside of the forge which must be lit prior to turning on any gas (Turn gas shut off valve OFF on one burner as you should light one burner at a time. Once one burner is lit, you may open the valve. The other burner should light off of the other, but if not use the same procedure to light the other burner.)
# Place the lit flame directly under the burner tube opening
# Keep hands face and other flammable materials away from the forge opening while lighting!!!!
# Slowly open your gas regulator and listen for a flutter of the flame lighting. As it lights, slowly increase the gas pressure on the regulator until your flame stabilizes
# As a rule of thumb, the burner choke should be fully open exposing all holes in the burner tube for adequate air intake. You may have to slightly adjust the burner choke to stabilize a constant flame
# If your flame is not lit immediately upon turning on gas, turn your propane regulator immediately off!! Wait several minutes for the propane to dissipate before trying to light your flame again ('''NOT FOLLOWING THIS PROCEDURE IS DANGEROUS AND COULD RESULT IN INJURY OR DEATH)'''
# The flame should be jet blue and roaring through the burner tube to the inside of the forge. Never yellow. If yellow, see the FAQ page.
# Always start with a full propane tank as a tank that is almost empty will have low pressure and cause your flame to not ignite properly or stabilize
# AFTER FINISHING USE, MAKE SURE TO TURN OFF PROPANE SOURCE, DISCONNECT REGULATOR HOSE, AND STORE IN A PROPER SAFE PLACE.
# ALWAYS PERFORM A LEAK CHECK ANYTIME THE HOSE AND FITTINGS HAVE BEEN DISCONNECTED.

'''Hell's Forge HELLCOTE 3000 - Installation Instructions: (Must wear dust mask while handling HELLCOTE in a dry state)'''

'''Mixing:'''

# Place entire contents of bag in a mixing container
# Gradually add small amounts of tap water, being very careful not to over saturate.
# Mix in a whipping fashion until the consistency is that of a milkshake ('''pourable'''). NOT TOO THICK!
# Using a paint brush or rubber gloved hands, place material inside the forge and spread evenly to approximately a 1/16”-1/8” coating while making sure to cover the entire blanket (including the ends)
# Make sure that the 2 pipes in the forge are clear of any refractory material prior to drying.
# Let air dry for 24 hours. May still be soft, that’s ok. Next, light forge for 3 minutes, then turn off for 1 hour.
# Forge is now sealed, protected, and ready to use!
# '''Some hairline cracking may occur in the coating, which is common to all refractory material coatings'''

= TROUBLESHOOTING =

'''Hell's Forge'''

'''Problem''': My flame is yellow and low pressure, not jet blue?

'''Solution''': LP Tank low on propane

Not enough air entering the top burner tube holes, open up the chokes.

Too much wind blowing causing the flame to flutter and go out

Partially clogged burner tip, insert a piece of .035 wire or a torch tip cleaner in burner holes to clear debris

'''Problem: ''' My regulator is freezing and causing low pressure and little flow

'''Solution: ''' LP Tank overfilled or moisture in the tank.

Purge tank to remove excess moisture or gas. Always do outside in several second intervals to allow gas to dissipate during purging. Do not light forge or smoke during this process.

If this doesn't cure it, the regulator has switched to low pressure safety mode and must be disconnected from the tank and reconnected to reset.

'''Problem:''' The regulator is leaking between it and the tank.

'''Solution:''' Do not operate it with a leak. You may have a scratch or gouge in your brass tank fitting causing the leak. Try the following to resolve the issue: First, attach to another propane tank to see if that makes a difference. Also try an “O” ring on the nipple and see if that works.

'''Problem:''' I found a small leak where the brass fitting connects to the steel tubes.

'''Solution:''' More pipe sealant needs to be added to the connection. Unscrew the copper tip with pliers, then apply more pipe thread sealer to the threads on the copper tip – being careful not to get the pipe sealer in the small hole in the copper tip. Tighten the copper tip carefully – not too much pressure. We recommend Rectoseal 5 Pipe Sealer.

'''Problem:''' Sputtering noise / slowing down of flame

'''Solution:''' Regulator may not be turned up high enough creating enough pressure to disperse to both burners.

'''Problem:''' I want to use a 100 lb. tank versus a 20 lb. tank. Can I use the same regulator?

'''Solution:''' Yes, you can use any size tank you want as long as the fittings are the same and yes the same regulator can be used.

'''Problem:''' I hear hissing sounds but have a blue flame and no leaks. Is everything fine?

'''Solution:''' Yes, this is normal as long as there are no leaks.

'''Problem:''' How do I know when the temperature is right to begin forging?

'''Solution:''' The metal should be getting a bright yellow almost white color. Keep in mind the thicker metal will take more time to come up to forging temperature. Close off the end with firebrick to help increase the temperature.

'''Problem:''' I’m only using one burner and noticed the rear burner choke hole is black. Is that a concern?

'''Solution:''' Make sure the burner tube holes are closed off on the one you are not using.

'''Problem:''' I melted the hose on my regulator. How can I order a replacement?

'''Solution:''' Ordering off Amazon will be your best option. We can’t compete with those prices so we don’t sell this part. You will need to order a 0-20 psi propane regulator with at least a 4 ft. hose and 3/8” female flare fitting. No specific brand recommended. If you have the MAX forge, order one that is a 0-30 psi.

'''Problem: ''' I am only using one burner but I see smoke coming from the other burner. Is this normal?

'''Solution:''' Make sure the air holes in that burner are closed off. Also, make sure the ON and OFF valve is fully in the OFF position.

'''THIS IS THE END OF THE PROCEDURE'''

Tool-User-Guides

2020-12-30T11:15:51Z

Admin: /* Metal Shop (130) */

== Woodshop (110) ==

[[Band Saw User Guide|Band Saw User Guide]]

[[thickness-planer-user-guide|Thickness Planer User Guide]]

[[Table Saw User Guide]]

[[miter-saw-user-guide|Miter Saw User Guide]]

[[jointer-user-guide|Jointer User Guide]]

[[drill-press-user-guide|Drill Press User Guide]]

[[lathe-user-guide|Lathe User Guide]]

[[cnc-router-user-guide|CNC Router User Guide]]

[[scroll-saw-user-guide|Scroll Saw User Guide]]

== Rapid Prototyping (120) ==

[[3d-printer-user-guide|3D Printer User Guide]]

[[laser-cutter-user-guide|CO2 Laser Cutter User Guide]]

[[vinyl-cutter-user-guide|Vinyl Cutter User Guide]]

[[heat-press-user-guide|Heat Press User Guide]]

== Metal Shop (130) ==

[[Blacksmithing User Guide]]

[[Stick Welding User Guide]]

[[MIG Welding User Guide]]

[[TIG Welding User Guide]]

[[CNC Plasma Cutter User Guide]]

[[Milling Bridgeport User Guide]]

[[Tormach CNC Milling Machine User Guide]]

[[Forming Combination User Guide]]

[[Shear Brake Roll Forming User Guide]]

[[Pipe and Tube Bender User Guide]]

[[Hydraulic Press User Guide]]

[[Hardinge Lathe User Guide]]

[[Cold Saw User Guide]]

[[Bandsaw User Guide]]

[[Klutch Heavy Duty English Wheel Kit User Guide]]

== Textiles (140) ==

[[brother-industrial-sewing-machine-user-guide|Brother Industrial Sewing Machine User Guide]]

[[sewing-machine-user-guide|Sewing Machine User Guide]]

[[Serger User Guide|Serger User Guide]]

[[screen-printing-user-guide|Screen Printing User Guide]]

== Computer Lab (150) ==

[[inkscape-user-guide|Inkscape User Guide]]

[[freecad-user-guide|FreeCAD User Guide]]

== Electronics (160) ==

[[oscilloscope-user-guide|Oscilloscope User Guide]]

Hydraulic Press User Guide

2020-12-30T11:14:09Z

Admin: Created page with "{| |width="33%"| '''Shop Area:''' Metal Shop '''Tool:''' Hydraulic Press '''Requires in-person training:''' Yes |width="33%"| '''Procedure Number''' UG 130-11, Rev. 0 |w..."

{|
|width="33%"|
'''Shop Area:''' Metal Shop

'''Tool:''' Hydraulic Press

'''Requires in-person training:''' Yes
|width="33%"|
'''Procedure Number'''

UG 130-11, Rev. 0
|width="33%"|
'''Date'''

DRAFT
|}

= GENERAL =

'''CENTRAL MACHINERY''' 12 Ton H-Frame Industrial Heavy Duty Floor Shop Press for metal straightening, bending, stamping, and bearing construction.

Model Number 33497

= SAFETY =

* Always wear approved safety glasses or face shield while operating the equipment.
* Before operating equipment, remove tie, rings, watches and other jewelry, and roll sleeves up past the elbows. Remove all loose clothing and confine long hair.
* Non-slip footwear or anti-skid floor strips are recommended.
* Closed toe shoes are required when working in a shop area.
* Keep hands away from Arbor Plates and Press Pin during use.
* Do not move workpiece while compressed.
* Release load before service or maintenance
* Keep area under Arbor Plates clear. If Arbor Plates rest on obstruction (i.e. bolt, debris, etc.), it creates an uneven press, causing excess stress and possible breakage.
* Avoid off-center loads. Do not operate if workpiece tilts or binds during compression.
* STOP and release compression if you suspect imminent structural failure. If safe, inspect thoroughly and reposition before proceeding.
* Do not compress springs or other elastic objects. They could disengage hazardously.
* Do not stand directly in front of the press when loaded. Do not leave the press unattended when loaded.
* Do not operate the hydraulic ram beyond rated capacity.
* Inspect before every use; do not use if parts are loose or damaged.

= REFERENCE =

* https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html

= PROCEDURE =

Press to remove and install bearings, bushings, gears, ball joints, U-joints, and pulleys. Press will provide substantial pressure for press-out jobs. H-frame shop press can be used for electric motor and armature repair, installation and removal of pressure-fitted parts, and bending or straightening of metal.

* Working distance: 1-3/4 in. to 25-1/2 in.
* Width between channels: 17 in.
* Raise and lower table for working distance

'''Tool Setup and Operation:'''

* Use the Support Pins to adjust the height of the Press Apron.
* Position the Press Apron as high as possible while positioning the workpiece as close as possible to the ram of the Ram Plate.
* When pressing two items together, the items must be lined up vertically. If not, one item may forcefully eject sideways from the unit.
* Place the item to press between the Arbor Plates.
* Using the Ram Handle, jack down the Ram Plate until the ram of the Ram Plate contacts your workpiece. If you are pressing two items together, line them up vertically.
* Continue to operate the Handle to press the workpiece.
* When the task is completed, carefully release the Ram pressure. For safety, remove the Handle, and use it to slowly turn the Valve Release Screw on the Ram, allowing the Ram Plate to rise

= TROUBLESHOOTING =

'''THIS IS THE END OF THE PROCEDURE'''

Tool-User-Guides

2020-12-30T11:14:02Z

Admin: /* Metal Shop (130) */

== Woodshop (110) ==

[[Band Saw User Guide|Band Saw User Guide]]

[[thickness-planer-user-guide|Thickness Planer User Guide]]

[[Table Saw User Guide]]

[[miter-saw-user-guide|Miter Saw User Guide]]

[[jointer-user-guide|Jointer User Guide]]

[[drill-press-user-guide|Drill Press User Guide]]

[[lathe-user-guide|Lathe User Guide]]

[[cnc-router-user-guide|CNC Router User Guide]]

[[scroll-saw-user-guide|Scroll Saw User Guide]]

== Rapid Prototyping (120) ==

[[3d-printer-user-guide|3D Printer User Guide]]

[[laser-cutter-user-guide|CO2 Laser Cutter User Guide]]

[[vinyl-cutter-user-guide|Vinyl Cutter User Guide]]

[[heat-press-user-guide|Heat Press User Guide]]

== Metal Shop (130) ==

[[blacksmithing-user-guide|Blacksmithing User Guide]]

[[stick-welding-user-guide|Stick Welding User Guide]]

[[mig-welding-user-guide|MIG Welding User Guide]]

[[tig-welding-user-guide|TIG Welding User Guide]]

[[cnc-plasma-cutter-user-guide|CNC Plasma Cutter User Guide]]

[[milling-bridgeport-user-guide|Milling Bridgeport User Guide]]

[[tormach-cnc-milling-machine-user-guide|Tormach CNC Milling Machine User Guide]]

[[forming-combination-user-guide|Forming Combinatiion User Guide]]

[[shearing-brake-forming-roll-forming-user-guide|Shearing - Brake Forming - Roll Forming User Guide]]

[[pipe-and-tube-bender-user-guide|Pipe and Tube Bender User Guide]]

[[Hydraulic Press User Guide]]

[[hardinge-lathe-user-guide|Hardinge Lathe User Guide]]

[[cut-off-saw-user-guide|Cut Off Saw User Guide]]

[[bandsaw-user-guide|Bandsaw User Guide]]

[[klutch-heavy-duty-english-wheel-kit-user-guide|Klutch Heavy Duty English Wheel Kit User Guide]]

== Textiles (140) ==

[[brother-industrial-sewing-machine-user-guide|Brother Industrial Sewing Machine User Guide]]

[[sewing-machine-user-guide|Sewing Machine User Guide]]

[[Serger User Guide|Serger User Guide]]

[[screen-printing-user-guide|Screen Printing User Guide]]

== Computer Lab (150) ==

[[inkscape-user-guide|Inkscape User Guide]]

[[freecad-user-guide|FreeCAD User Guide]]

== Electronics (160) ==

[[oscilloscope-user-guide|Oscilloscope User Guide]]

Hydraulic-press-user-guide

2020-12-30T11:13:35Z

Admin:

Hydraulic-press-user-guide

2020-12-30T11:13:17Z

Admin: Created page with "{| |width="33%"| '''Shop Area:''' Metal Shop '''Tool:''' Hydraulic Press '''Requires in-person training:''' Yes |width="33%"| '''Procedure Number''' UG 130-11, Rev. 0 |w..."

Hardinge-lathe-user-guide

2020-12-30T11:12:05Z

Admin: Created page with "{| |width="33%"| '''Shop Area:''' Metal Shop '''Tool:''' Herdinge Lathe '''Requires in-person training:''' Yes |width="33%"| '''Procedure Number''' UG 130-12, Rev. 0 |wi..."

{|
|width="33%"|
'''Shop Area:''' Metal Shop

'''Tool:''' Herdinge Lathe

'''Requires in-person training:''' Yes
|width="33%"|
'''Procedure Number'''

UG 130-12, Rev. 0
|width="33%"|
'''Date'''

DRAFT
|}

= GENERAL =

Hardinge - Super Percision Lathe

Model HLV-H 10” Toolmaker’s Lathe 9492

= SAFETY =

<ul>
<li>Always wear approved safety glasses or face shield while operating the equipment.</li>
<li>Before operating equipment, remove tie, rings, watches and other jewelry, and roll sleeves up past the </li>
<li>elbows. Remove all loose clothing and confine long hair.</li>
<li>Non-slip footwear or anti-skid floor strips are recommended.</li>
<li>Closed toe shoes are required when working in a shop area.</li>
<li>Do not wear gloves while operating the equipment.</li>
<li>Make all machine adjustments or maintenance with the machine unplugged from the power source.</li>
<li>Always power off machine when not in use.</li>
<li>Never operate with unbalanced tooling or spindle fixtures.</li>
<li>Remove all tools (wrenches, chuck keys, etc.) from spindle and machine surface before starting operations; loose items can become dangerous projectiles.</li>
<li>Use adequate work clamping; loose workpieces can become dangerous projectiles.</li>
<li>Protect your hands. Stop machine spindle and ensure machine motion has stopped before:</li>
<li>- Reaching into any part of the machine motion envelope
- Changing tools, parts or adjusting the workpiece
- Changing belt/pulley position
- Clearing away chips, oil or coolant; always use a chip scraper or brush
- Making an adjustment to part, fixture, coolant nozzle or when taking measurements
- Removing protective shields or safeguards; never reach around a guard</li>
<li>Keep work area clear of clutter as machine motion can occur when keys are accidently pressed or objects fall on keyboard, resulting in unexpected motion.</li>
<li>Position clamping attachments clear of tool path. Be aware of workpiece cutoffs that could be cut free during operations and become dangerous projectiles.</li>
<li>Always use proper speeds, as well as depth/width of cut to prevent tool breakage.</li>
<li>Check for damaged tools/workpieces and cease operations if detected; replace before re-starting operations as these can become dangerous projectiles. Never use longer or larger tools than necessary.</li>
<li>Chips and dust from certain materials (e.g., magnesium) can be flammable. Fine dust from normally non-flammable materials may be flammable or even explosive.</li>
<li>Chips, dust, and vapors from certain materials can be toxic. Always check the Materials Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for each material.</li></ul>

= REFERENCE =

TBD

= PROCEDURE =

'''Spindle Control Lever:''' Control Level A is the main control lever for the spindle. When moved to the extreme left the brake is released and the main drive motor is on the “LOW” side. When Level A is moved to the extreme right the brake is released and the main motor is on the “HIGH” side. The center or “STOP” position stops the motor and applies the brake,

'''Direction Control Lever for Carriage:''' Control Lever B reverses direction of carriage for threading only. Always place this lever in center position before starting the machine.

'''Disconnect for Gearbox:''' Knob C is used to connect of disconnect the gear box from the headstock spindle by means of a sliding gear. Always shut off machine before engaging or disengaging. Turn knob clockwise to “FEED” position to disconnect gear box.

'''Spindle Lock Pin:''' The spindle lock pin D is located at the front of the headstock. The pin is held in the “OUT” or released position by a spring and ball plunger. The spindle lock pin is used to hold the headstock spindle stationary when applying or removing spindle nose attachments, adjusting collet closer, tightening draw spindle or when applying and removing work from fixtures. To engage lock pin turn spindle by hand and hold lock pin “IN” until it engages in one of the notches of the spindle assembly. RELEASE BRAKE by setting switch A to “OFF” position. The spindle lock pin is interlocked electrically with the main drive motor and must be withdrawn before machine will start.

'''Free Spindle Turning:''' To obtain a “free spindle” for easy turning of the spindle by hand, place operating Lever A in “STOP” position and turn brake switch A to “OFF” position.

'''Start and Stop Spindle:''' Pull out spindle lock pin D. Lever A and lever B must be in center position. Place knob C in “FEED” position. Set switch B at “FORWARD”. Put collet in spindle with correct size stock in place or use headstock center and tighten with collet closer. Press “START” button A on front of control panel which energizes panel and is indicated by pilot light E. The machine is ready to start. Use main control lever A to start and stop the spindle. Move to extreme left to start spindle and “LOW” side of motor. Move to extreme right to start spindle on “HIGH” side of motor. Center position shuts off the main motor and applies the brake.

To make the spindle go “FASTER” push the top button until the speed indicator shows desired speed and then remove finger from button. To make spindle go “SLOWER” push lower button.

The speed indicator moves up or down to indicate in the left column speed for the “LOW” side of the motor and in the right column for the “HIGH” side of the motor.

'''Control Panel: ''' “START” button A controls main contactor to energize switch control panel. Push “STOP” button C when finished using lathe. Switch B is “Forward-Reverse” for spindle. Switch A releases brake when set at “OFF” to give “free spindle”.

When set a “BRAKE” the brake automatically goes “ON” or “OFF” when using control lever A. Coolant switch B should be at “OFF” unless using coolant supply.

'''Spindle Driving Unit:''' The driving unit provides infinitely variable spindle speeds from 125 to 3,000 RPM by push button control. Speed changes can be made while the tool is actually “under cut” with the operator watching the chip and tool to obtain fastest chip removal and longest tool life.

Push button controlled motor A is a reversing motor and actuates speed changing screw B which in turn raises or lowers frame C. Frame C carries the countershaft pulley assembly D.

= TROUBLESHOOTING =

TBD

'''THIS IS THE END OF THE PROCEDURE'''

Admin:

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